Looking for someone to talk me into either keeping my M6 or swapping to a 4l80.... I have an early VIN M6 and we all know what that means... the output shaft should really be called the No Output shaft.... It will break. I am currently at 590+ RWHP and 505 RWTQ and I have plans to bump up the boost a couple pounds to 8psi...

I planned on pulling the M6 and sed it to Tick Performance for a total rebuild with the 9310 output shaft, support bearing, carbon blockers, etc.... I was also going to upgrade to the LPE ZR1 clutch and flywheel assembly. All said and done cost would be $3300.

I can piece together a 4l80 swap kit for $4500... This I would be installing myself, which is no problem. Jakes Stage 2.5 trans warranteed for 1 yr at 850HP, billet 9.5" convertor, etc, etc....

I plan to race the car a bit more this summer, but it will mainly be a street car.. What I dont want is to get to the track and be frustrated/disappointed with the M6... I consider myself an above average manual driver, but still..

So, opinions are welcomed. I would like to make a decision by next week because the pricing I have on everything is only good through the new year...

Thanks!!!

At least you're running the centry.. That gives you some padding on the launch... I'm hating the TR-6060 along with the Maggie at the track with my current setup...

Honestly, if you're going to seriously track the car and want to get some good numbers.. Do the auto conversion and take full advantage of that set up over slipping the clutch on launch.

If you're not going to see the track all that much and just like having the beefed up setup to play around with, then just leave it alone and keep the stick.. You'll be dumping a lot of money in to the car for just a track pass.. You're also looking at giving up 2 gears which I don't think you're going to enjoy daily driving the car..

This isn't like dumping a grand or so in to track tires that you can easily sell off.. You're talking about a major drive train overhaul for something you're admitting won't be constantly on the track.

I'm running the 11.973 on the stock 20s and that's babying the clutch and car.. Even if I stayed with the 1/4 mile and got the right tires, I'd still be abusing the clutch pretty badly and would eventually need a better one, then the better tranny, then the center section, etc.

You're right to worry about the output shaft on that early VIN.. Even with mine, I'm a little concerned on the launch with a higher VIN. I don't know much about the updated TR-6060s from that place, but people seem to like them -- but, it's still a traditional stick and is going to take more to go faster than an auto..

What times are you shooting for exactly? If you're going to stay in the 11s.... Don't worry with the auto.. the M6 will be just fine with the right updates.. Now.. if you want to go deep in the 10s..

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TVS2300 @ 9PSI, DougThorley LT Headers w/ Magnaflow HF Cats, Borla Touring, Cold Air Inductions CAI, RX Catchcan
Pedders Track-II Suspension w/ Xa Coilovers || PFADT Sways, Trailing Arms, Solid Cradle Mounts
Hendrix Engineering L5 Axles, DBA4000 Rotors, Carbotech XP10/XP8, Motul RBF600, GTO clutch reservoir
Heritage Grille, MPD-1 Spoiler

I agree with all that wiki said.

My overall thought.. If its primarily a street car, m6 all the way. It's simply more fun. I used to have a cam only full bolt on 4th gen with a big converter, running 11.90s like clockwork. Was it consistent, yes. Would I do it again? No. My 5th gen m6 keeps me more interested. An auto setup is ideal if you're a track rat and always shooting for the next best time. If you track it for fun only, m6.

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2010 Camaro SS/RS - "SSTOCK"
1988 Fiero GT - "LAST GT"
2011 HHR LS